"
Half-way to Krupena we reposed at a brook, where the carpets were laid
out and we smoked a pipe. A curious illustration occurred here of the
abundance of wood in Servia. A boy, after leading a horse into the
brook, tugged the halter and led the unwilling horse out of the stream
again. "Let him drink, let him drink his fill," said a woman; "if
everything else must be paid with gold, at least wood and water cost
nothing."
Mounting our horses again, we were met by six troopers bearing the
compliments of the captain of Krupena, who was awaiting us with
twenty-two or three irregular cavalry on an eminence. We both
dismounted and-went through the ceremony of public complimenting, both
evidently enjoying the fun; he the visit of an illustrious stranger,
and I the formality of a military reception. I perceived in a moment
that this captain, although a good fellow, was fond of a little fuss;
so I took him by the hand, made a turn across the grass, cast a
nonchalant look on his troop, and condescended to express my
approbation of their martial bearing. True it is that they were men of
rude and energetic aspect, very fairly mounted.
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