The most splendid
buildings are the poor-house, the prison, and the new barracks. The
hotels are very dear everywhere; they seem to depend for existence on
commercial travellers and tourists. Tourists are expected to be prepared
to drop money as the child of the fairy tale dropped pearls and
diamonds, on every possible occasion, and unless one is able to assert
themselves they are liable to be let severely alone as far as comfort is
concerned, or attendance; but when the _douceur_ is expected plenty
are on hand and smile serenely.
Left Omagh behind and took passage for Fermanagh's capital, Enniskillen
of dragoon celebrity. The road from Omagh to Enniskillen showed some, I
would say a good deal, of waste, unproductive land. Land tufted with
rushes, and bare and barren looking--still the fields tilled were
scrupulously tilled. The houses were the worst I had yet seen on the
line of rail, as bad as in the mountains of Donegal, worse than any I
saw in Innishowen. I wonder why the fields are so trim and the homes in
many cases so horrible. Not many, I may say not any, fine houses on this
stretch of country.
Arrived at Enniskillen on market day, towards the close of April.
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